Showing posts with label Dog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dog. Show all posts

Monday, November 30, 2015

Lyme Disease: Tick Protection and Your Pet

Tick season is still here! We hope you read our previous blog, where we talked a bit about ticks and the transmission of Lyme disease. There are a lot of good tips to protect yourself and your pets from tick bites. But let’s talk a little bit more about Lyme disease, and what that means for you and your pet.  

In Ontario, Lyme disease is transmitted by the deer tick, Ixodes scapularis. It is estimated that 18% of the overall tick population in Ontario is infected with Lyme disease. The tick needs to be attached for greater than 24 hours for the disease to be transmitted, and it can take 2-5 months for a dog to start showing clinical signs. These clinical signs can include fever, anorexia, lameness and joint swelling. However, 95% of dogs that have become infected with Lyme disease never become clinical. Humans cannot get Lyme disease directly from an infected dog; they too need to be bitten by a tick infected with the disease.

Your vet can screen your dog for the presence of antibodies to Lyme disease through a screening test called 4Dx. This test screens for Lyme disease, as well as other tick-borne diseases (including Ehrlichia and Anaplasma) and heartworm. Typically a veterinarian will recommend this screening test after your dog has been bitten by a tick – but not immediately after the tick is found; it can take 3-5 weeks for the antibodies to become present in your dog’s system. It is also recommended as an annual screening test, since we don’t always find every tick on our dogs – especially the really hairy ones!
If your dog tests positive for Lyme disease on the 4Dx screen test, it indicates that your dog has previously been exposed to the disease and has developed antibodies against it. It doesn’t indicate an active infection – in fact, some dogs that have been diagnosed with Lyme disease can remain positive on their 4Dx screen for many years. Your vet will probably recommend a further test to quantify the number of antibodies present to determine the level of infection. If your dog is showing clinical signs of the disease, treatment will be initiated.
So now we know what to do if your dog has been bitten by a tick. But how about we prevent those ticks from ever latching on?
There are a variety of tick products available for dogs. They range from topical products to oral products, with some collar options as well. These products do not all protect against every type of tick, so be careful when picking your tick product. Just because it says tick, doesn’t mean it covers all the ticks common in your area (or the Lyme-disease-transmitting Deer tick)!

A few of our favorite products for tick prevention include:
Bravecto - this oral product can be given once every 12 weeks to dogs and treats against fleas, Deer ticks, American Dog ticks and Brown Dog ticks. It cannot be given to dogs less than 6 months of age or less than 2 kg.
NexGard - this oral product is given monthly to dogs to protect against fleas, Deer ticks, American Dog ticks and Lone Star ticks. It is approved for puppies greater than 8 weeks of age.
Preventic Collars - this collared product for dogs protects against American Dog ticks and Brown Dog ticks. It can last for up to 90 days, but is not recommended for use in dogs with cats in the same household.
K9 Advantix II - this topical product is for dogs only. It repels fleas and all species of tick (American Dog tick, Brown Dog tick, Lone Star tick and Deer tick). It is to be reapplied monthly, but is not recommended for use on dogs with cats in the same household. It is safe for dogs greater than 8 weeks of age.
Revolution - this topical product is a great choice for cats (and also can be used in dogs). It is used to treat against fleas, Brown Dog ticks and American Dog ticks and should be reapplied monthly. It is safe for dogs and cats greater than 6 weeks of age.  
  

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Lyme Disease: Tick Prevention, You and Your Pet

It’s high time for ticks to strike in Canada, and incidents of Lyme disease are on the rise. Staying informed about ticks, knowing the risks and focusing on prevention can help keep your pet – and your family – safe from Lyme disease this season. 
First, get to know their habitat; ticks love to dwell in wooded, grassy areas, especially thick underbrush. Some outdoor jobs and recreational activities, like landscaping, farming, hiking, hunting and fishing, can put you or your pet at a higher risk. When it comes to the transmission of Lyme disease, Ixodes scapularis, or “deer ticks”, are the usual suspects. Adult deer ticks are especially active in mid-to-late fall. These pests cannot jump or fly, but are skilled at latching onto a host at ground level and crawling upward to find exposed skin. And despite what many people think, dogs do not give Lyme disease to people; humans are at risk only if bitten by an infected tick.
While all Canadians are at risk for Lyme disease, eastern Canada has reported the highest rate of infection across the country. Lyme disease is often misdiagnosed, during the stage when it’s easiest to treat. Infection risk is present year-round, but be aware that you and your pet are most prone to Lyme disease from May through September. In addition, keep in mind that ticks are more than just a springtime hazard. If fall temperatures remain mild, ticks can peak again in October or November.
In fact, certain species of ticks may display increased activity at different times throughout the spring, then again in the fall.  In particular, a study from Ontario shows primarily I. scapularis ticks peaking first in the spring months, then a second time in November.
Climate change is also projected to be a factor in the overall tick prevalence. It is speculated that in the next 80 years, the total area of land suitable for ticks and their hosts will increase by 68.9% in North America. In Canada, that number is estimated at a 212.9% increase. This means that warmer temperatures will invite an influx of ticks well into the fall months over a greater geographic area, creating an even more urgent need for vigilance and yearly pet vaccination.
To protect yourself from ticks, wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and tuck your pants into your socks. Wearing light coloured clothing makes ticks easier to see. It may also be helpful to walk with a partner who can watch for ticks on your or your pet. Try to stay on clear, unobstructed trails, and away from the fringe area between the woods and open land. Spraying an insect repellant on your body and clothing can also deter ticks however consult product caution statements before using, especially on young children. Immediately after being outside in tick-infested areas, check your clothes and body, as well as your pet's body, for ticks. If you discover one or more ticks attached, proper removal is essential.
 
How Do You Remove a Tick?

For a full list, consult the Canadian Lyme Disease Foundation at http://canlyme.com/lyme-basics/tick-removal/.

Most commonly, ticks can be removed using fine-pointed tweezers or a tick removal device, grasping the tick as close as possible to the skin surface, and pulling straight outward. Once the tick is out, it’s important to wash the bite with soap and water and treat it with an antiseptic.
If the tick that bit you or your pet is a Lyme-carrying species or if you are unsure, consult your doctor or veterinarian immediately. Symptoms of Lyme disease may not present right away, but early detection can aid in a successful treatment. If you experience headaches, body aches, fever or congestion, or notice your dog behaving differently, seek medical or veterinary care immediately. If left untreated, Lyme disease can cause irrevocable damage to the joints, nervous system and more.
Remember, Lyme disease cannot be easily cured - but it can be prevented. Stay informed, follow these simple steps for prevention and as your veterinarian about protecting your dog(s) from Lyme disease with yearly vaccination and a monthly tick control product today!

 
Printed with permission from Merial Canada.

Friday, November 6, 2015

Myths around Urinary Tract Health in Dogs and Cats

Myths around Urinary Tract Health in Dogs and Cats

By: Dr. Doreen M. HoustonDoreen is a board certified Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM).


Calcium Oxalate Stones
Myth 1:   Salt in urinary diets is bad.  It can lead to kidney failure, hypertension and associated heart disease, and calcium oxalate bladder and kidney stones.
Dogs and cats are not “salt sensitive” like humans.  There are many published studies that support that salt does not contribute to kidney disease; in fact there is science suggesting quite the opposite.  Low salt intake can lead to loss of potassium in the urine and this can worsen kidney failure.  By increasing the salt content of the diet, we might actually help decrease the risk of chronic renal failure.  There are a number of studies supporting that salt is not a concern in aged cats, the group most likely to develop kidney disease.  Unlike people, dogs and cats do not develop hypertension because of salt in the diet.  Salt in urinary diets causes the animal to drink more and consequently urinate more-this is good when trying to prevent significant crystal and stone disease in dogs and cats.  Salt in the diet has been shown to help prevent calcium oxalate stones in cats and dogs.

Myth 2:   Struvite crystals and stones form when the urine pH is alkaline.  Keeping the urine acidified will prevent struvite in dogs and cats.  On the other hand, calcium oxalate forms when the urine pH is acidic.   Keeping the urine alkaline (pH >7) will prevent calcium oxalate in dogs and cats.
Struvite in the majority of canine cases is due to infection.  Treating or preventing the urinary tract infection is the most important aspect of management of struvite crystals and stones in dogs.  Cats are totally different- infection does not play a role in the vast majority of cases.  A diet that maintains an average urine pH less than 6.5 and restricts the minerals that contribute to struvite formation is recommended in cats.
Calcium oxalate crystal and stone formation is not urine pH dependent in dogs or cats.  This type can form at any urine pH.  Highly acidic urine (consistently having a pH in the 5’s) may predispose a pet but otherwise, urine pH is not a key factor in the development of oxalate crystals or stones.   A diet that has undergone specific testing for oxalate crystal and stone prevention is recommended for management of oxalate in dogs and cats.

Myth 3:   Cats with blood in their urine should be placed on antibiotics for 7-14 days.
Antibiotics are not indicated unless a urinary tract infection (UTI) is confirmed with urine culture and sensitivity. Cats rarely get UTIs and it is much more likely that there is another reason for blood in their urine, such as a condition called Feline Idiopathic Cystitis! Antibiotics are rarely needed in cats with lower urinary tract problems. There is growing concern for antibiotic resistance in people and pets-antibiotics should not be given unless an infection is confirmed.

Myth 4: Ash in pet food is one of the causes of feline lower urinary tract disease. Ash can cause a male cat to suffer a blockage in the urinary system.  Cats should not be fed diets with ash.
This was a commonly held belief for many years, but has been shown not to be true. All pet foods are composed of protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and water. The inorganic components of pet foods, such as the minerals and vitamins, are called “ash” because they are not incinerated when the food is burned for nutritional analysis. Ash was once thought to contribute to struvite crystals and stones in the bladder and urethra of cats, causing male cats in particular to “block”-not be able to urinate. We now know that urinary pH plays a significant role in the development of struvite crystals in cats and if the urine pH is kept lower than 6.5 and the amount of magnesium (one of the minerals in “ash”) is controlled the production of struvite crystals and stones can be prevented. In addition, it is important to know that other minerals in ash such as calcium, manganese, and selenium are critical to the cat’s health. Ash is not a bad thing!

Myth 5: Vitamin C, cranberry juice, or cranberry extracts are very good for urinary tract health-they acidify urine (lower the urine pH), are anti-inflammatory and might help treat and prevent urinary tract infections.

Friday, October 9, 2015

Alternative Medicine and Your Pet


In addition to conventional medical treatments, there are many different alternative therapies available.  Some examples of these include chiropractic therapy, acupuncture, laser therapy, herbal medicine  and homeopathy just to name a few. 
Chiropractic therapy has been used in performance animals such as horses for a long time. It has been used successfully and become more popular for small animals such as dogs or cats for spinal misalignment or joint pain.  This can be effective for both acute and chronic pain. 

Acupuncture can be used in conjunction with chiropractic medicine or on its own.  Acupuncture has been around for thousands of years but only in the last few decades has it been used in the western hemisphere.  It has become much more widespread both in humans.   Acupuncture acts by balancing the body and helping it return to a state of homeostasis using very fine needles along various energy lines of the body.  In veterinary medicine acupuncture is mostly used for treating musculoskeletal disease or pain in dogs, cats or horses. 


The ultimate goal at Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic is to find the optimal course of treatment for you and your pet.  Whether you choose conventional medicine, alternative therapies or a blend of the two, it is very important to consult your veterinarian BEFORE administering any type of therapy or medicine to your pet.   It is equally important to advise your veterinarian of any herbs, medications or therapies that your pet is currently on as there are times when they could interfere with and work against the treatment your veterinarian has recommended. 
When it comes to dosing and safety of any medication (including herbs or homeopathic remedies), your pet is not the same as a child.  Even if a compound is considered safe for a child it doesn’t necessarily mean it is safe for your pet.
It is important to work with your veterinarian for the best possible course of treatment that is specifically designed for your pet.   If you are considering alternative therapies for your pets you should discuss it with your veterinarian.
Brigitte Rudolf, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Friday, June 12, 2015

Dutch Dogs Have it Made!

I recently returned from an amazing vacation in the Netherlands. It did not take me long after my arrival in Holland to realize that I would not miss having dogs around. There were dogs every where. 

Dutch people are very active and I would estimate that 75% of the people I saw out walking, hiking and biking had dogs with them. They came in all shapes and sizes and seemed to vary in breeds depending on what part of the country we were in.  I spent the most time in the central region of Holland near Nijkerk. Here the Belgian Tervuren is apparently very popular. I saw at least 20 of them during my stay. In Canada I have not seen that many in all my years at the vet clinic. They are very athletic dogs and I assume that the biking enthusiasts choose the breed for their ability to run alongside the bikes for kilometre after kilometre. If the cyclists did not have a dog running alongside them, it was not unusual to see smaller breeds with them on the bikes. I saw one Mom with a basket for her dog and a child at the front with two older children on the back. Amazing how they get around.

In the northern province of Friesland the hunting breeds are very popular, especially bird dogs. I saw Gordon, Irish and English setters as well as many Labradors. We also got to see a Wirehaired Pointing Griffon (right), a breed developed in Holland. Not only are there thousands of sea birds here but also a large population of wild pheasants.

We also saw a beautiful Keeshond (top left) which is also a breed native to the Netherlands.

In one of the fishing towns I also saw a very cute Schipperke (left). I always thought this breed was also developed in Holland but apparently they are from Holland's neighbour, Belgium

The other thing that I really loved was that all of the dogs were on leash, except the field dogs in Friesland.

 In Holland you are also permitted to have your dog on the bus or train. They have to pay 3 Euro, but many people do this. You are also allowed to have your canine friend go to dinner with you. I know there are some places in Canada that this can happen but I think it is uncommon. It certainly does not happen in Durham region. I think I read somewhere that the only place dogs are not allowed are in the museums.

I did miss Kenzie while I was away but certainly saw a lot of dogs for my daily dog fix.

Diane McGill
Technician
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Roundworms!!



Canine and feline Roundworm!!

What is it and how does your pet get it?


Roundworms are a type of intestinal parasite commonly found in the digestive tracts of cats and dogs. This parasite can be passed from Dam to babies during nursing, across the placenta when puppies are in utero or through the ingestion of contaminated hosts or soil. Soil that has embryonated (infective) eggs or hosts that have ingested embryonated eggs pass roundworm infections on to dogs and cats when consumed. Eggs become embryonated after they have been exposed to the elements. Once the embyonated eggs are ingested they hatch out and migrate thoughout the body. The adult roundworms can be found in the small intestines.

Why have fecal examinations on your pet?

Fecal examinations are a great way to detect many intestinal parasites in your pet. Roundworms are only one of hundreds of intestinal parasites found in cats and dogs. Fecal examinations look for the microscopic eggs that are shed by mature adults. You will not always see stool changes if there is an active infection. It depends on the type of parasite, stage in the lifecycle of the parasite and number of parasites present and your pets’ sensitivity to the infection.

Why deworm puppies and kittens?

It is known that puppies and kittens can become infected in utero and puppies can become infected while nursing. If infection is present, it can affect growth and development of the puppies and kittens. Poor hair coat, pot-bellied appearance, and in severe cases death may occur. Puppies and kittens can shed eggs in the environment and then can infect other animals. When puppies and kittens are dewormed then the lifecycle can be broken.
Not only can roundworm infections affect your pet, but it is also a zoonotic disease. A zoonotic disease is something that can be transmitted between humans and animals. Dog and cat Roundworms can cause health concerns in people, particularly in children. Children tend to play in dirt that can harbour roundworm eggs and they tend to be less hygienic than adults. Health concerns in people from dog or cat roundworm can be caused by larva migrating through tissues in the body.  The parasite can travel through tissues causing inflammation. Many people may be asymptomatic for infection.

How do we prevent infection?


Regular veterinary care for your dog and cat, including fecal examinations, strategic deworming and monthly preventatives can help protect your pet. Stooping and scooping is a good practice to minimize transmission of many parasites. Eggs can be long lived in the environment. Hand washing is very important. After handling pets, playing outside and before preparing or eating food washing hands can decrease transmission to people. Do not allow your child to eat dirt or play in areas soiled by animals. Covering children’s sandboxes when not in use can also help prevent infection. Pets are a great pleasure for people and the risk of transmitting parasites to humans can be very small if the recommendations are followed.

Lisa, RVT
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic  

Friday, April 24, 2015

Spring Time Toxins

Tips from Pet Poison Helpline to Help Keep Your Pet Safe!
By Erica Carghill, CVT and Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC

Spring is just around the corner!  Plant bulbs are just as excited to break through the ground to add some color to our yards, as we are to see some greenery!  That said, we need to be aware of the potential dangers spring plants can be for our pets.  Here is a list of some of the most common spring plants and their toxicities… so you know how to pet-proof your garden and keep your pet safe!
Tulips and Hyacinth
Tulips contain allergenic lactones while hyacinths contain similar alkaloids.  The toxic principle of these plants is very concentrated in the bulbs (versus the leaf or flower), so make sure your dog is not digging up the bulbs in the garden.  When the plant parts or bulbs are chewed or ingested, it can result in tissue irritation to the mouth and esophagus.  Typical signs include profuse drooling, vomiting, or even diarrhea, depending on the amount consumed.  There is no specific antidote, but with supportive care from the veterinarian (including rinsing the mouth, anti-vomiting medication, and possibly subcutaneous fluids), animals do quite well.  With large ingestion of the bulb, more severe symptoms such as an increase in heart rate and changes in respiration can be seen, and should be treated by a veterinarian.  These more sever signs are seen in cattle or our overzealous, chowhound Labradors.
Daffodils
These flowers contain lycorine, an alkaloid with strong emetic properties (something that triggers vomiting).  Ingestion of the bulb, plant or flower can cause severe vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and even possible cardiac arrhythmias or respiratory depression.  Crystals are found in the outer layer of the bulbs, similar to hyacinths, which cause severe tissue irritation and secondary drooling.  Daffodil ingestion can result in more severe symptoms so if an exposure is witnessed or symptoms are seen, we recommend seeking veterinary care for further supportive care.
Lilies
There are dangerous and benign lilies out there, and it is important to know the difference.  Peace, Peruvian, and Calla lilies contain oxalate crystals that cause minor signs, such as tissue irritation to the mouth, tongue, pharynx, and esophagus – these result in minor drooling.  The more dangerous, potentially fatal lilies are true lilies, and these include Tiger, Day, Asiatic, Easter and Japanese Show lilies – all of which are highly toxic to cats!  Even small ingestion (such as the pollen or 2-3 petals or leaves) can result in severe kidney failure.  If your cat is seen consuming any part of the lily, bring your cat (and the plant) immediately to a veterinarian for medical care.  The sooner you bring in your cat, the better and more effectively we can treat the poisoning.  Decontamination (like inducing vomiting and giving binders like activated charcoal) are imperative in the early toxic stage, while aggressive intravenous fluid therapy, kidney monitoring tests, and supportive care can greatly improve the prognosis.
Crocus
There are two Crocus plants:  one that blooms in the spring (Crocus species) and the other in the autumn (Colchicum autumnale).  The spring plants are more common and are part of the Iridaceae family.  These ingestion can cause general gastrointestinal upset including vomiting and diarrhea.  These should not be mistaken for Autumn Crocus, part of the Liliacease family, which contain colchicine.  The Autumn Crocus, also known as Meadow Saffron, is highly toxic and can cause severe vomiting, gastrointestinal bleeding, liver and kidney damage, and respiratory failure.  If you are not sure what plant it is, bring your pet to their veterinarian immediately for care.  Signs may be seen immediately but can be delayed for days.
Lily of the Valley
The Convallaria majalis plant contains cardiac glycosides, which will cause symptoms similar to digitalis (foxglove) ingestion.  These symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, a drop in heart rate, severe cardiac arrhythmias, and possibly seizures.  Pets with any known exposure to this plant should be examined and evaluated by a veterinarian and treated symptomatically.
In addition…. Fertilizers
As we gardeners work on our rose garden, be aware of those fertilizers.  While most are not very toxic (resulting in minor gastrointestinal irritation when consumed), some fertilizers can be fatal without treatment.  Here are a few ingredients to be aware of so you know what toxins and symptoms to watch out for:
·         Blood meal – This is a dried, ground, and flash-frozen blood and contains 12% nitrogen.  While it’s a great organic fertilizer, if ingested, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea.  More importantly, it can result in sever pancreatitis, which is inflammation of the pancreas.  Some types of blood meal are also fortified with iron, resulting in iron toxicity, so make sure to know what is in your bag of blood!
·         Bone meal – This is made up of defatted, dried, and flash-frozen animal bones that are ground to a powder.  This “bone” is also what makes it so palatable to your dog so make sure to keep your pet from digging in it and ingesting the soil.  While this also makes a great organic fertilizer, it can become a problem when consumed in large amounts as the bone meal forms a large cement-like bowling ball foreign body in the stomach – which can cause an obstruction in the gastrointestinal tract – resulting in possible surgery to remove it!
·         Rose and plant fertilizers – Some of these fertilizers contain disulfoton or other types of organophospates (OP).  As little as one teaspoon of 1% disulfoton can kill a 55 lb dog, so be careful!  Organophosphates, while less commonly used, can result in severe symptoms [including SLUD signs (which abbreviate for salivation, lacrimation, urination and defecation), seizures, difficulty breathing, hyperthermia, etc.  In some cases, it can be fatal!
·         Pesticides / Insecticides  - Most pesticides or insecticides (typically those that come in a spray can) are basic irritants to the pet and are usually not a huge concern unless a pet’s symptoms become persistent.  Some may contain an organophosphate which can be life threatening when consumed in large quantities.  It is always best to speak to a trained medical professional if there are any questions.
·         Iron – This is commonly added to fertilizers, and can result in iron toxicity (from ingestion of elemental iron).  This is different from “total” iron ingestion, and can be confusing to differentiate.  When in doubt, have a medical professional at Pet Poison Helpline assist you with finding out if the amount ingested was toxic or not.  Large ingestion can result in vomiting, bloody diarrhea, and potential cardiac and liver effects.

The best thing any pet owner can do is to be educated on the household toxins (both inside the house and out in the garden!), that way you make sure how to pet-proof your house appropriately.  Make sure to keep all gardening and lawn products in labeled, tightly sealed containers out of your pet’s reach.  If you think your pet has been poisoned, contact your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline at 800-213-6680 with any questions or concerns.

 Resources:  Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) is an Animal Poison Control that provides treatment advice and recommendations relating to exposures to potential dangerous plants, products, medications, and substances, to veterinarians, veterinary staff and pet owners 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.  Please be aware there is a $35.00/per case consultation fee.  Pet Poison Helpline is located in Minneapolis, Minnesota.  The Helpline number is 800-213-6680.


For further information regarding services, visit the PPH website at www.petpoisonhelpline.com

Monday, April 6, 2015

Weighty Issues: Body Condition Scoring

So, now that we have discussed that obesity is a disease that is preventable and manageable, it’s time to figure out where each of our pets fall in the spectrum of obesity. To do that, we need a few different pieces of information: a weight, and a body condition score.

The first thing most people do when bringing their dog to the clinic is to pop them on the clinic scale. When cats come out of the carrier, the first place they land is on the cat scale. This is a vital piece of information for the veterinary clinic, as it allows us to accurately dose your pet should he or she need any medication, and we can also track the weight over progressive visits to monitor weight gain or weight loss.

But veterinarians and technicians are also assessing a body condition score. When we give your pet a good rub down in the room, we aren’t just being friendly. We are feeling fat padding, muscle tone and the prominence of bones like ribs and hips. Based on this tactile assessment and also a visual look at the waist and belly, we assign your pet a body condition score. Body condition scores can be out of 9 or 5, and this allows us to translate whether that 10kg dog is healthy, overweight or underweight.

You can do body condition scoring at home. It takes a bit of practice, and keep in mind that body condition scores are subjective analysis of your pet. Don’t be surprised if you and your vet disagree slightly in the scoring – we all tend to be a bit more optimistic regarding the health and weight of our own pets, where as your vet likely has a more critical eye. Personal experience can also affect how we view weight issues – what we perceive as normal will be very different depending if we spend all day at the dog park watching pudgy labs play,  versus spending time at a sport-dog competition where pets are typically more trim.  

To perform a body condition assessment, start with feeling your pet over its chest area, using light palpation. You are gauging how prominent the ribs are. Ideally, you should not have to dig too deeply to be able to feel your pet’s ribs.


Next, move your palpation down to your pet’s abdomen. You are feeling for the presence of a waistline and also a “tummy-tuck”. Now run your hands down your pet’s spine, hips and tail, feeling for excess fat accumulation. Cats in particular are prone to developing a fat pad in front of their hind legs. If your previously-overweight cat has been on a weight-loss program and is doing well, don’t be surprised if this fat pad remains longer than you’d like. It’s often the last evidence of obesity to disappear.

Compare what you feel and see to the scoring charts – there are different ones for toy, small, medium, large and giant breed dogs and also cats: http://www.pet-slimmers.com/pet-obesity/how-to-tell-if-your-pet-is-overweight.aspx

If you’ve done this scoring and feel your pet is anything other than ideal (4-5/9), call your veterinarian today to discuss what you can do to get your pet in its optimal body condition.

Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Weighty Issues: Pet Obesity

Obesity is one of the most common diseases that is identified in our companion animals. Yes, I said disease. Obesity is a disease that can greatly affect a dog’s or cat’s overall health and life-span. It is more than a cosmetic issue; it is a health-risk. The good news? Obesity is manageable, but not only that, it is preventable.

A dog or cat is classified as overweight when they weigh more than 10% of their ideal body weight; they are obese when they weigh more than 20%. Animals can be predisposed to obesity from a variety of factors, including genetics, neutering and endocrine disorders, but the most common cause of obesity is energy imbalance. Put simply, animals are often fed too much and exercised too little.

Cats and dogs that are obese have reduced quality of life and their life-expectancies can be greatly shortened. Furthermore, obese pets are at higher risk for many disorders, including:
  • Cardiac disease
  • Respiratory disease
  • Osteo-articular disease
  • Urolithiasis (urinary stones)
  • Diabetes mellitus
But obesity is a touchy subject. In a world where the statistics involving human obesity is on the rise, many people are inclined to take any discussion regarding overweight or obese animals personally. The fact is, most vets are not being judgemental or mean when they diagnose a pet as obese or overweight; they have the pet’s best interests at heart. It is a medical fact, the same as diagnosing an animal with a fractured tooth or a broken leg or a heart condition. Similarly to those conditions, treating an animal’s obesity can greatly increase their life-span and make them more comfortable.

The problem with obesity is that it is not a curable condition. It is a chronic concern that will affect that pet’s entire life. An overweight animal can’t just start a diet, loose a few pounds and then go back to eating lots and exercising less. Obesity will recur, and many weight-loss programs must be maintained for life to keep an animal in ideal body condition.

In animals that are obese, simply cutting back on the current diet is not enough. Maintenance or even weight-control diets are not properly formulated for weight-loss. Severe restrictions of these diets can result in vitamin and mineral deficiencies, not to mention hungry pets. To achieve healthy weight loss, animals need correctly-formulated calorie-controlled diets that make an animal feel full so there is less begging or food-stealing, which can be a hiccup in most weight-loss plans. Proper exercise is also very important and needs to go hand-in-hand with proper nutrition.

This may sound very complicated. Not to worry – this is why your veterinarian is here. We have access to all the latest research in nutrition, plus special diets that have been put through rigorous testing and formulating – and that we have seen WORK to achieve weight loss. We would love to help, and celebrate the victories with you!




Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Monday, March 2, 2015

Pet Food Nutrition: the Truth About Corn

 
There has been an increasing trend in the movement of pet food companies to exclude ingredients like corn based on the perception that it is an undesirable ingredient. It has been described as an indigestible "filler" ingredient (ingredients that do not contribute to any nutritional or beneficial properties to a food) that leads to food allergies. The reality is that most concerns regarding corn are invalid.

Remember: true food allergies are uncommon in dogs and cats. It has been estimated that only 1% of all skin diseases can be attributed food allergies; more often flea-allergy dermatitis and atophy are responsible. Most gastro-intestinal conditions that respond well to diet changes are actually more food-sensitivities or intolerances to properties of the diet such as fat or fibre content.

Further more, corn is a rare cause of food allergies. More often, allergies occur to other ingredients including beef, dairy and chicken. In general, animal-based protein is more commonly a cause of allergies rather than plant-based ingredients.

So while there is little evidence to support the exclusion of corn, corn is also a source of essential nutrients. It contributes fibre, protein, vitamins, minerals and high-digestible carbohydrate to a diet. It is also one of the riches sources of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, and as such is not a "filler" ingredient.

When it is properly processed (ie: rolled, ground, flaked, cooked), corn's digestibility greatly increases. Whole ground corn cooked via extrusion (the way that most dry pet food is made) has been shown to have a digestibility of greater than 97% in dogs and cats!

Corn, like many other ingredients, has managed to develop a bad reputation based little on fact and more on myth. As always it is important to educate yourself on interpreting pet-food ingredients and marketing strategies, differentiating real information from hype. As always, your veterinarian can help you sort out fact from fiction when choosing an ideal diet for your pet.

Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Monday, February 9, 2015

Brushing your Dog or Cat's Teeth

How often do you brush your cat or dog's teeth? Do you know the optimal amount of brushing that is recommended to help control the progression of dental disease?

Just like humans, cats and dogs require daily brushing of their teeth to provide the best control over the progression of dental disease. Many things can contribute to dental disease, including diet, age, breed and genetic predisposition. But the more at-home dental care you can provide, the better off your pet's teeth will be.

Starting a teeth-brushing regime can seem like a daunting task if you've never brushed an animal's teeth before. Here are some easy tips to help you get started.

1) Start with getting your dog or cat used to having its mouth handled. Rub the muzzle, massage the gums, and be sure to make sure everything ends on a positive note.

2) Introduce a small amount of toothpaste with your finger. Rub this against the teeth and the gums to get your pet used to the taste and sensation. Be sure to use a toothpaste designed for dogs and cats.

3) Bring on the toothbrush! Wet the bristles down and start brushing the larger canine teeth in gentle circular motions.

4) Work your way back across the rest of the teeth, increasing the time and pressure used on each tooth. Focus on the outside surface of the teeth; tartar rarely occurs on the inner surfaces

5) Finish with brushing the front teeth by holding the muzzle with your other hand and lifting the lips to allow access.

When you are first introducing this to your cat or dog, you may need to start very slowly, and reward after each step. Do not rush into a full brushing as your dog or cat may object and be more resistant next time. The end goals are an easy teeth-brushing experience every time, fresher breath and a healthier pet!

Check out this site for further teeth-tips!

Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic



Saturday, January 24, 2015

Pet Food Nutrition: Grain-Free Diets

Dogs and cats are both classified in the order Carnivora. Does that mean that they should receive a strict meat-only diet? Are certain carbohydrate-sources better or worse than others? Do grain-free diets provide health benefits over those that contain grains?

Contrary to popular belief, grain-free diets do not offer health benefits over diets than contain grains. Dogs are actually considered omnivores (and thus more similar to bears, skunks and racoons), and both dogs and cats have the ability to digest, utilize and benefit from a nutritionally balanced diet containing carbohydrates, including grains. In fact, animals do not treat grains differently from other sources of carbohydrates like potato and apple – the body recognizes the food by the nutrients it provides, not by its source. The starch (the main carbohydrate) in grains is actually highly digestible for both dogs and cats – 95% or higher.
Many manufacturers, in an attempt to make their diet stand out in a competitive market, advertise grain-free diets as being healthier, when in reality they are readily comparable to their grain-containing counterparts. Many grain-free diets are not actually lower in carbohydrates, but rather use alternative sources of carbohydrates, such as potatoes and tapioca, which are actually lower in protein and higher in sugars than grains.
So what other benefits do grain-free diets claim? Some claim that the risk of food allergies, obesity or diabetes is higher in diets that contain grains as the source of carbohydrates. True food allergies (reaction of the immune system to certain food proteins) are actually quite rare but can be caused by any ingredient that has protein. Food intolerances (which don’t involve the immune system) are usually in response to certain nutrient profiles, such as high-fat diets, and are rarely related to grains specifically. The most common allergies in dogs are beef, dairy, wheat, chicken and egg; in cats beef, dairy and fish are most common. Usually animal proteins are more common causes of allergies than grains or other carbohydrate sources. However, if an animal is truly allergic to a single type of grain (for example, wheat), feeding other types of grains (like oats and rice) should not be a problem.
Obesity is a serious disease that affects a large number of our animal friends. However, the main cause in both dogs and cats is excessive calories – regardless of the source. Many grain-free diets are actually higher in calories and fat; they can be easy to over-feed and the fat makes them very palatable. Regardless of the type of diet fed, owners should monitor their pet’s body condition and weight carefully and feed accordingly.
Diabetes in dogs is related to the destruction of specific cells in the pancreas, and cannot be induced with diet. However, it has been shown that achieving and maintaining optimal weight and providing a consistent diet and meal times can help in managing the disease in dogs. Cats, on the other hand, are prone to developing diabetes if their weight is not-well managed. As mentioned above, diets containing grains do not promote obesity. While some research has shown that diets with lower carbohydrate content can be useful in managing diabetes in cats, most of these diets contain grains.
While grain-free diets can provide excellent nutrition, they do not offer health benefits over diets than contain grains. It is important to assess your pet’s diet based on overall nutrient profile rather than individual ingredients, and to not be swayed by marketing tactics.
Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Human Food... To Feed or Not to Feed


Let's face it. We all know that ideally dogs and cats should stick to their nutritionally-balanced diets. However, when your little (or not-so-little) furry friend starts batting its eyes at you, its tempting to sneak them a treat from time to time. But do you know what human foods are safe and not-so-safe for your pet?

There are many reasons that human foods can be dangerous to your pet. Some can cause intestinal blockages. Some are toxic to cats or dogs. Certain others can cause extreme gastro-intestinal upset. Its important to know what foods to avoid when picking out a snack for your furry family member.

UNSAFE FOODS FOR DOGS AND CATS:
  • Grapes or raisins
  • Garlic, chinese chive or anything from the garlic family
  • Macadamia nuts
  • Chewing gum with Xylitol
  • Onions
  • Bones of any type
  • Raw bread dough of any type
  • Peaches with the pit or any stone fruit
  • Chocolate
  • Avocados
  • Moldy cheese or nuts
  • Alcohol
  • Coffee
  • Tea
  • Corn cobs
But there are several types of human foods that can be a fun addition to your pet's diet, if kept in moderation. Remember, treats should not make up more than 10% of your pet's daily intake. The treats listed below are safe, low-calorie treat options for your pet.

SAFE FOODS:
  • Carrots
  • Rice cake
  • Apple slices
  • Dry toast
  • Cucumber slices
  • Peanut butter (small amount)

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Puppy Socialization

What is Socialization and Why is it Important?


Puppies (and many young creatures) have a special period in their life where they are open to new experiences. This allows them to become used to new things in their environment - things that they will be living with for the rest of their lives. It allows puppy to be part of society - and for puppies, this means being comfortable around the many elements of human life.

A puppy's development is broken into many periods. The first period, canine socialization, allows a puppy to learn normal dog behaviour from its mother and litter mates, including normal canine play, communication and bite inhibition. This period takes place from 3-7 weeks of age.

The second period is human socialization. During this period a puppy's learning is most rapid. It is open to new things and very receptive to teaching. Experiences during this phase will greatly shape how a puppy acts for the rest of its life. This period occurs at 7-12 weeks of age. However, this period also overlaps with a puppy's fear period, where fearful situations have a great (and lasting) impact. Therefore it is important that a puppy's experiences stay happy and positive, to prevent a fearful exposure.

After, the puppy goes through a senior classification period, where it will be tempted to push the limits of its previous training. It may not want to come when called, and it may "forget" what it has already learned. The puppy is challenging you (the pack leader) as a way of resolving the question of leadership - who is in control here?

Thus, the key socialization period for puppies is before 12 weeks of age. But it is important to remember those fear periods. Thus:

socialization = new stimuli + POSITIVE experience


Studies have shown that dogs socialized early and frequently are more attracted to humans and show less fearful behaviours. The most common cause of fear and aggression is lack of socialization - a puppy does not have to be mistreated to become afraid of people or new experiences. Furthermore, young dogs with behavioural problems are more likely to be surrendered to shelters or euthanized than their well-adjusted counterparts.
How Does Socialization Occur?

As when introducing anything new, start slowly. Create a list of things you'd like to socialize your dog to (the internet can be a handy source for such lists). Your list could include:
  • other animals (cats, dogs, horses, birds)
  • new people (men, women, children)
  • scary sounds (thunder, fireworks, vacuum cleaners, sirens)
  • objects (wheelchairs, baby strollers, cars)
  • environments (city street, suburban neighbourhood, parking lots)
  • objects (brooms, balloons, garbage cans)
It is important to remember that dogs perceive things differently than we do - a man with a beard looks very different than one without, and a person wearing a helmet might not be perceived to be a human at all! Also remember that exposure to the same dog fifty times is very different than exposure to fifty dogs once.
Start exposing your dog to new things one at a time, and if possible, in a controlled environment. Gauge your puppy's response - is it fearful, freezing, barking, struggling to get away, or is it calm and relaxed, exploring the object? Treats can be an excellent way of associating a scary thing with a positive experience, but ideally a puppy should be comfortable around a stimuli without the help of food. If your puppy responds fearfully to an object, it will have to be re-exposed (likely with more treats). Keep working on exposure, and remember that it is ok to loose the fight if it means winning the war. For example, if you are trimming nails, its ok to stop after three if it means that the next time you trim nails things will be easier, and the puppy will be more comfortable with the experience.
Further Resources
Because puppy socialization is recognized to be so important, there are many resources available to help puppy owners.
Dr. Sophia Yin (drsophiayin.com): an excellent webpage on all things behaviour-related, created by a well-renowned veterinary behaviouralist. It even has a downloadable socialization check-list. Also check out the poster depicting fearful canine body-language - a good guide when gauging your dog's response to new stimuli.
Puppy Happy Hour: Many places offer puppy socialization classes - a great opportunity to expose your puppy to new thing in a safe environment. At Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic we offer a complimentary socialization session to our patients. The purpose of these sessions are to expose puppies to new dogs, new stimuli in a safe (and fun) environment. For more information or to register for one of these sessions, visit our webpage: http://bowmanvilleveterinaryclinic.com/newpage101.pml.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Heat stroke in Pets


Now that the warm weather is finally up on us after a long hard winter, we here at the Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic are seeing many people enjoying the outdoors with their dogs.  Outdoor cats, and even some rabbits and pocket pets are also enjoying the sunshine and spending increased time outside.  However with this warmer weather there are hazards that we as pet owners and veterinarians need to be aware of. 

 One of the dangers that comes with this hot weather is heat stroke.  Heat stroke is the elevation in body temperature due to environmental conditions.  A dog’s normal body temperature ranges from 37.5-39.0 C.  Temperatures greater than 41 C eventually lead to organ failure and ultimately death. The most common cause of heat stroke is being left in a car in warm weather, but it can also result from being left outside in the heat with no access to shade and water, or when exercised in hot and humid conditions. It can take less than 5 minutes in a car in the heat of summer to result in heat stroke.  Even on a cooler day the inside of the car can heat up considerably compared to outside temperatures and no animal should be left in the car.

If you have birds, rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas or other small mammals and you place them outside in their enclosure please ensure they have access to shade and water at all time.  It does not take long for these animals to get overheated.

There are some factors that can predispose an animal to heat stroke.  Some of these include age and respiratory conditions.  Brachycephalic breeds (short nosed dogs) such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston terriers are more susceptible to heat stroke due to their anatomy . 

Heat stroke also called hyperthermia requires immediate treatment otherwise it will lead to death. It is important to recognize the signs.  Initially your pet will pant, become restless and then appear distressed.  Often animals are wobbly or disoriented and start to drool excessively.  Eventually the animal’s gum color will change to dark red or purple due to lack of oxygen.

A pet suffering from hyperthermia needs to be removed from the environment immediately and veterinary care needs to be sought.  Move your pet to a cool area and if a fan is available direct this at the animal.  Try to get a rectal temperature and record it.  Place cool wet towels on the animal for evaporative cooling.  Areas that will lead to maximum cooling include the groin, armpits, and the back of the neck.  This can be done while moving the animal to a veterinary facility.

It is extremely important NOT to use ice or cold water to cool the animal.  Cool tap water is recommended.   Do not try to force your pet to take any water, however if your pet is
alert enough to have drink on his/her own that is fine

Severe hyperthermia can lead to multi organ failure and it is important to get your pet to a veterinary facility to be assessed.  Often animals will need intravenous fluids for shock, oxygen therapy and more intensive care depending on the severity of the heat stroke.

Heat stroke is preventable.  Please do not leave your animals in the car even for a few minutes, ensure they have access to shade when outside and on those really hot/humid days plan your walks very early in the morning or late in the evening.  Enjoy the warm weather with your pet, especially after this cold winter we have had, but please be safe.

Brigitte Rudolf, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Pet Food Nutrition: Food Allergies & Food Intolerances


Itch, itch, scratch, scratch. Does your dog lick at his paws, rub his belly on the floor or have chronic
ear infections? Many people assume that dogs and cats with itchy skin have an allergy to ingredients in their food – but actually food allergies in pets are less common than environmental allergies to pollens, molds or dust mites. It can be tricky to differentiate environmental allergies (termed atopic dermatitis) from food allergies, but sometimes atopic dermatitis can present as skin conditions that occur seasonally, while food-allergies are more typically year-round (although not all animals follow these patterns).

Some cats and dogs present with diarrhea that resolves with a change in diet. In these cases, it is more likely that the animal is responding to differences in fat, fibre and digestibility of the food, rather than to a specific ingredient. In fact, “adverse food reactions” can be divided into two categories: food allergies and food intolerance.

  • Food allergy involves an immune-response to specific proteins in the food. Signs can include gastrointestinal signs (vomiting, diarrhea) or – more commonly – skin problems (itching, redness, infections). 
  • Food intolerances do not involve the immune system, and can contribute to gastrointestinal symptoms or – less commonly – skin issues. An example of food-intolerance includes lactose-intolerances, which rarely occurs in dogs and cats, but is common in humans.
How can we diagnose food allergies? 

A strict elimination diet is a good way to reliably diagnose a food allergy or intolerance. The new diet needs to be fed exclusively for 6-10 weeks (with no additional treats, table scraps, rawhides or dental chews), then the animal can be re-challenged with the original diet.

Choosing an elimination diet can be difficult. Exotic ingredients such as lamb, duck and venison are not always good, especially if a dog has been exposed to these ingredients in the past. Unfortunately many pet foods are introducing new and exciting ingredients that sound healthy, which actually complicate matters when trying to rule-out food allergies. 
Finding novel ingredients requires a thorough diet history – including all pet foods, treats, table-scraps, etc. It is important to find novel meat and carbohydrate sources, as carbohydrates can contain allergens as well. A proper elimination diet should contain one protein and one carbohydrate source, plus all the vitamins and minerals required to make the diet complete and balanced.

An alternative option to novel ingredient diets is a hydrolized diet. These diets contain proteins that have been chemically or enzymatically hydrolyzed to reduce them to a smaller size that is less likely to trigger an allergic reaction.

Many over-the-counter pet foods boast the benefits of their novel protein diets meant for food allergies. However, in many cases these diets still contain more than one protein and carbohydrate source, either intentionally or through unintentional contamination from other food lines made in the same manufacturing plant. A true hypoallergenic diet should be created in a facility with strict cleaning protocols, and should always be the first diet manufactured to decrease the risk of contamination. Furthermore, hydrolized diets are not available in over-the-counter recipes. It is possible to use over-the-counter diets as a management diet once a food-allergy is diagnosed, but should not be used during the strict elimination diet period to diagnose a food allergy.

What about grain-free or gluten-free diets?

While there has been a lot of marketing talk lately regarding a movement to grain-free options for dogs and cats, in reality grains are less common causes of allergies than animal products. The most commonly reported food allergies in dogs are beef, dairy, wheat, chicken and egg; in cats beef, dairy and fish are more common culprits. See our next blog in the nutrition series for more about grain-free diets.

In humans there are medical conditions (e.g. celiac disease) that cause people to be sensitive to gluten, a protein portion of some plants. It is currently a popular trend towards pet-foods labelled as gluten-free. However, gluten-sensitivity has only been reported in a small, related family of Irish Setters, and never in cats. There is no evidence to support that gluten-free diets have any health benefit in the majority of dogs and cats.


While food allergies do occur in dogs and cats, environmental allergies and food intolerances are more commonly the causes of skin and gastrointestinal problems. If you are concerned about the possibility of food allergies for your pet, you need to consider a proper food-allergy diet trial done under the supervision of your veterinarian.
Vanessa Tonn, DVM
Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic