Bowmanville Veterinary Clinic

CAT VACCINES 

 

One of these cats is sick, can you tell which one?



“I vaccinated my cat as a kitten, so it’s protected for life.”  

Once is not enough.  While kitten vaccines offer great initial protection, the effect begins to wear off with time.  Without additional boosters, a cat’s immune system may not be strong enough to ward off certain infectious diseases. 

It is recommended that owners take their older cats – those that are still healthy and those with long-standing but stable disease conditions – to receive ongoing routine vaccines. Your veterinarian can recommend vaccines.

“My cat never looks sick.”

Taking a cue from their wild ancestors, cats are masters at disguising pain and illness as a protective mechanism.  As a result, many owners fail to recognize the telltale signs.  Here are some common symptoms to look for:

• Excessive sleeping
•  Urinating and drinking more water than usual
• Spending more time in the litter box
• Lack of appetite
• Limping
• Hiding
• Vomiting and diarrhea
• Excessive vocalization
• Behavioural changes

“My cat can take care of itself.”

Because of a cat’s reputation for independence, people mistakenly believe that their feline friend can look after itself.  That’s not the case; cats need attention and healthcare from their owners and their veterinarian. 

“My cat is older, it doesn’t need to be vaccinated or examined every year.”

In its senior years, a cat’s immune system may not be as capable of overcoming infectious diseases, so it’s more important to make regular visits.  The AAFP and the AAHA (American Animal Hospital Association) recommend a minimum of one wellness exam per year and even more frequently for senior or geriatric cats, if warranted by their medical condition.  These exams can help detect several chronic ailments particular to senior cats.

“My cat is indoors, why get it vaccinated?”

Indoor cats are often able to sneak out.  In one study, 41% of lost cats were considered by their owners to be indoor-only.  And, according to the American Humane Society, only 2% of lost cats ever find their way back from shelters, often because they lack tag or microchip identification.  Once outside, they can quickly pick up diseases from their neighbourhood.

With its rabies vaccination, your cat will receive an identification tag which allows you to go online and register your pet.  (visit: www.getmehome.ca)

“Veterinary visits and vaccines are expensive.”

Preventive feline healthcare will improve the quality of life for your cat, and that peace-of-mind is priceless.  Plus, you’ll save on expensive veterinary costs through ongoing wellness checks that will detect potential serious problems in the early stages.

“My cat hates going to the veterinarian.”

In a recent study, more than half of all cat owners reported they avoid veterinary visits for their cat because of the stress involved with travel to and from the clinic and the visit itself.  Not to worry, the following information provides comforting ways to transport your cat to the vet and back home again.

 

TIPS ON HOW TO TRANSPORT YOUR CAT TO THE VETERINARY CLINIC CALMLY AND COMFORTABLY.

• Look for a carrier with proper ventilation, made of sturdy plastic, with a front door and, ideally, with a top that can be lifted off.
• Place the open carrier in an undisturbed area where your cat likes to spend time.  With time, your cat will get used to it.
• Place a piece of clothing with your scent in the carrier.  Include soft bedding,  their favourite treats, or familiar toys in the carrier.
• Gently rub a cloth around your cat’s face.  With the scented cloth, rub it on your cat’s carrier to make it smell like home.
• To reduce motion sickness, avoid feeding your cat a few hours before the trip.
• After you’ve placed your cat in the carrier, place a towel over the carrier.  This should help calm your cat.
• In the car, drive smoothly, reduce the noise (music, honking, etc.)  Instead, talk to your cat, as your voice can be reassuring.  A cat’s sense of hearing is 4 times sharper than ours.
• While in the clinic waiting room, keep the towel on the carrier and sit as far away as possible from dogs.
• After returning home (if other cats are around), take a cloth and rub the other cats.  Then rub the returning cat with the same cloth – this can reduce conflicts.
• Don’t worry if your cat seems unhappy after their visit to the clinic.  The minor stress experienced is not harmful to your cat’s health or to your relationship with it.

Remember, regular visits to veterinary clinics have been proven to extend the life and well-being of our feline friends.  You’ll feel better, and so will your fun, affectionate loving cat.

Crate training is not just for the dogs.  In fact, taking time to adapt a cat to a crate or carrier can have tremendous benefits for the cat, the owner, and the veterinarian.  Cats that are comfortable and secure with their carriers can be more successfully managed during travel, vacation, visits to the veterinarian, or when confinement is necessary post surgery, or in the management of behaviour problems such as aggression or house soiling.

Many cats become fearful and even aggressive when being placed in their carrier, or even at the sight of a carrier.  This is likely to be the case if the cat has been previously forced into the carrier, or the carrier has been associated with unpleasant experiences.  If a cat is fearful of its carrier, this can incite fear even before the car ride or veterinary visit. Cat owners should focus from the outset on making the carrier a positive and secure place for the cat.

Although young kittens are generally less fearful and more exploratory, it should be possible to make the carrier inviting for cats of all ages.  This can best be achieved by locating the carrier with the door open in an area where the cat likes to explore, play, eat, or sleep.  The key to success is to be creative in finding ways to encourage the cat to voluntarily enter and find comfort in the carrier by offering, treats, food, toys, or bedding.

In addition, many cats will be naturally curious to enter to they can spread their body and cheek gland marks on the cat carrier; this should be immediately reinforced with treats.

Cat owners will need to determine what type of carrier is most appealing to their cat.  Some cats are more relaxed when they can see what is going on around them, in which case a wire crate might be better.  Others feel more secure in a carrier with solid sides.  Rigid carriers may be sturdier and easier to keep clean but some cats may more willingly enter a soft-sided carrier.  Carriers can open from the side or top.  Carriers that offer both options allow the cat to enter from either door while the top opening (or removing the top) might provide a less stressful way to work with cats in a veterinary clinic environment.  Once a cat will readily enter the carrier, the owners should practice lifting and moving the carrier, followed by short car rides that incorporate treats and rewards to distract the cat.  Make sure the initial trip is an enjoyable experience.

Every effort should be made to condition the cat to its carrier before any stressful outing.  However, if there is not enough time to introduce the cat to the carrier before the first trip, the owners should work to insure that confinement is as stress-free as possible.  Food or treats and comfortable bedding may help the cat to adapt.  In addition, by spraying a synthetic feline facial pheromone (e.g. Feliway) on the bedding about 30 minutes before placing the cat in the carrier, stress and anxiety may be further reduced.  Medication or other natural products to reduce anxiety might also need to be considered.

Finally, for cats that have had a previous negative experience with a carrier, consider re-training with a carrier that is sufficiently different in size, shape or surface texture that it does not cause fear and the cat is more likely to voluntarily enter. Putting treats, toys or bedding in the carrier can again help to encourage its use.  Another option is to purchase a carrier with a removable top and to give the cat an opportunity to use the bottom half for feeding or resting.  Pet owners should not close the carrier until the cat is comfortable with entering and staying inside. 

This article was co-authored by Dr. Colleen Wilson and Dr. Gary Landsberg.  Dr. Landsberg is a veterinary behaviourist at the North Toronto Animal Clinic in Thornhill.  He is a mentor for the ACVB specialty training program for Dr. Denenberg at the North Toronto location (northtorontovets.com) and Dr. Wilson at Osgoode Veterinary Services (osgoodvet.com) in Ottawa.  It was first published in the OVMA’s January/February 2011 issue of Focus magazine and is reprinted with permission.